‘Solah
Shringar’- Sixteen adornments complete an Indian bride - an epitome of
beauty.
The Hair:Her hair, is braided into a weave of plaits or tied back at the
nape of her neck in a bun with flowers and ornaments wrapping it.
While the
Punjabi bride must wear a red parandi. The Bengali and Maharashtrian brides
will sport a bun decorated with white flowers. Further south, in Tamil Nadu,
white, orange and pink blossoms are woven around the plait. In Kerala, the
bride has a veil of jasmine buds-strands of flowers tied to form a net.
The
Forehead
Bride’s forehead is embellished with tikka/bindi which run on top of both
sides of the eye-brows. An ornament is worn along the hairline.
The
mang-tikki is worn by brides in most parts of the country, It is usually a
simple round disc, about an inch across, set with precious stones and is
attached to the parting of the hair by a chain. The nose ring, as it is
called in English, is only seldom in the shape of a ring. In most places it
is usually a small cluster or gems affixed by means of a screw to the
nostril.
The Eyes
For
highlighting the eyes, Kajal made from the soot of diya (earthen lamp) lit
with a wick placed in clarified butter is used. Of course a variety of
make-up is used nowadays.
The
Nose
The
biggest nose ring is worn by the Dogra brides. Almost three to four inches
in diameter it has rubies and pearls strung on it. The gold wire is in a
loop shape with encrustations of pearls, garnets and other beads for the
Maharashtrian bride and worn on the left side.
The Ears
The
ears are bedecked with the karn phul - a gold ornament with a star or
radiated center of about an inch in diameter sometimes richly ornamented by
precious stones and fixed to the lobe. Jhumka-a bell shaped ornament made of
solid gold usually with a row of tiny beads along its edge, is the favorite
among the Bengali, Punjabi, Maharashtrian and Rajput brides. A string of
pearls is attached to it and taken behind the earlobe to support the weight
of the heavy earring.
The Tamilians
give importance to the diamond-studded earring, a central stone encircled by
smaller ones. Among the Kashmiris a jeroo is an essential part of the
bride’s ensemble and duplicates as the mangalsutra. It consists of a long
gold chain worn through a hole pierced in the upper ear lobe and having a
dangling end of either gold or pearls.
The Neck
The
variety of necklaces is bewildering, and brides, especially the affluent,
are seen wearing a series of them of differing lengths. There is the collar
of gold beads called the paiti by the Maharashtrian, and the parunia ke
gulsari- string of pearls; the hansli a choker of gold pieces.
The Punjabis
have the rani haar, handed down from mother-in-law to daughter-in-law and
consists of pieces of gold attached with a series of chains.
The
Maharashtrian also wear the tanmani, three or four strings of pearls with a
central pendant, or the typical path where seven or eight strings of pearls
are attached to a central green bead.
The Tamilians
have their changali in gold but what is imperative is the mangalsutra of two
inverted ‘U’ shaped gold pieces called tail with four gold beads strung on a
yellow thread.
The
Wrist
The
bangle or bracelet is the most significant of ornaments for bangles are
above all, the visible sign of marriage. The north Indian brides have, among
the Punjabis and Dogras, the chura made of a set of white ivory bangles with
red ones at either end. On a thin iron bangle in the front are tied a bunch
of kaliras-danglers of thin silver or gold. Also common is coconut and some
dried fruits and shells tied together by the red sacred thread.
The Rajput
bride wears the ichura- a series of plain, ivory bangles starting from the
smallest at the wrist and progressively growing larger till the shoulders,
covering the entire arm.
The ivory
chuda is also worn by the Gujaratis and in addition are the green and red
glass bangles or bangri. Green glass is again the colour for the Andhra and
Maharashtrian brides. Of course gold bangles also add to the profusely
adorned wrists in all parts of India, either as the thin churi or its
broader, flatter version or the thick kara with either the elephant or lion
heads.
Further up
the arm is the bazubandh or armlet-a precious stone-adorned semi-circular
trinket with skeins at both ends to tie them in place with.
The
Palms
The
palms are covered with an intricate design of mehandi and in the north
especially, the application of henna is a special ceremony.
Another
popular combination in the north is the haath phool. It consists of five
rings in all the fingers, joined to a bangle at the wrist with chains from
each ring radiating to a medallion encrusted with stones in the center of
the hand, with chains again joining the medallion to the bangle.
The
Waist
To keep the
sari in place as well as accentuate the bride’s slim waist a belt of gold or
silver is used. While the Punjabis call it tagari the Tamilians used the
odianmam to hold their nine-yard sari in place!
The
Ankle
Anklets are
either in the form of simple chains of paizeb heavy thick rings of silver
set with a fringe of small spherical bells which tinkle at every movement of
the limb.
Toe rings - 'bichua',
rings worn around the toes, and traditionally attached along each side of
the foot, to the paizeb at the ankle.
Among the Maharashtrians it is an elaborate toe-ring with a parrot, peacock
or fish design.
The
Dress
The
richly woven gold and red brocade sari which is considered one of the most
graceful dresses in the world.
The wedding
ensemble could be ghaghra-choli in bright red color, the green nine yard
paithan of the Maharashtrians, the maroon and gold-bordered koorap-podavi of
the Tamilians; the raunak gold and white one of the Sindhis and a similar
one of the Keralites or the white with red border sanetar of the Gujarati.